In the world of fashion, where trends are often fleeting and the industry chases perfection and glamour, Comme des Garçons stands as a radical exception. Founded in 1969 by Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo, the brand has built a legacy on defiance, experimentation, and a deep commitment to artistic integrity. It challenges conventional notions of beauty, gender, form, and function—transforming the very definition of what fashion can and should be.
This article takes a closer look at Comme des Garçons, exploring its origins, core design principles, cultural significance, and the woman behind the brand.
Origins: A Brand Born to Break the Rules
Rei Kawakubo did not come from a traditional fashion background. She studied fine arts and literature at Keio University in Tokyo before beginning work as a stylist. Dissatisfied with the limited creative freedom offered by existing fashion, she launched her own label, Comme des Garçons, in 1969. The name, which translates from French as “like boys,” was already an indication of the brand’s subversive direction—hinting at gender neutrality and rebellion against feminine norms.
By 1975, the brand had gained considerable attention in Japan, and in 1981, Kawakubo made her international debut at Paris Fashion Week. The debut was met with a mix of awe, confusion, and even criticism. Her collection, filled with black garments, deconstructed tailoring, and unusual silhouettes, shocked the Parisian fashion establishment. The press dubbed it “Hiroshima chic” due to its dark and seemingly “destroyed” aesthetic. But Kawakubo was undeterred. She had not come to please—she had come to provoke.
The Aesthetic: Deconstruction, Asymmetry, and Anti-Fashion
At the heart of Comme des Garçons is a rejection of traditional fashion values. Instead of glamor, symmetry, and elegance, Kawakubo embraced imperfection, asymmetry, and abstraction. Many of her garments look unfinished or broken. Seams are exposed, hems are uneven, and silhouettes are oversized or awkward. Yet this is no accident—every element is intentional, aimed at confronting preconceived notions of beauty.
Some key characteristics of the brand’s aesthetic include: https://comme-des-garcons.uk
- Deconstruction: Taking garments apart and reassembling them in unconventional ways to expose their structure and subvert expectations.
- Asymmetry and Irregularity: Rejecting symmetry in favor of abstract, sculptural forms that often challenge how the body relates to clothing.
- Monochromatic Palettes: Early collections were almost entirely black, a color that Kawakubo believed allowed her to focus on form and concept over decoration.
- Gender Fluidity: Many collections intentionally blur the lines between men’s and women’s clothing, long before gender-neutral fashion became mainstream.
- Experimental Fabrics: Use of unusual materials—waxed cotton, industrial textiles, and even plastic—expands the definition of what “clothing” can be.
These principles earned Comme des Garçons the reputation of being “anti-fashion”, yet that very resistance is what made it so influential. Kawakubo’s designs are not meant to flatter the body or appeal to the masses. They are meant to evoke, question, and inspire.
Sub-Labels and Commercial Success
Despite its avant-garde foundation, Comme des Garçons has expanded into a diverse portfolio of sub-labels, making the brand both conceptually influential and commercially viable.
- Comme des Garçons PLAY: Launched in 2002, PLAY is a casual line known for its minimalist basics and the now-iconic heart logo with eyes, designed by artist Filip Pagowski. It has become the brand’s most recognizable and commercially successful line.
- Comme des Garçons Homme / Homme Plus: These are the brand’s menswear lines, offering both tailored and avant-garde options. Homme Plus, in particular, mirrors the experimental nature of the main women’s collections.
- Comme des Garçons Noir, SHIRT, Wallet, and others: These focus on different aesthetics or product categories, allowing the brand to cater to varied audiences while maintaining its core identity.
Comme des Garçons has also formed significant collaborations with global brands like Nike, Converse, Supreme, Levi’s, and even Louis Vuitton, creating pieces that blend high fashion with streetwear and mass appeal. These collaborations have introduced the brand to younger consumers and kept it culturally relevant.
Rei Kawakubo: The Designer Who Reshaped Fashion
Rei Kawakubo is famously elusive. She rarely grants interviews and almost never speaks publicly about her work. Instead, she lets the clothing speak for itself. Her refusal to explain or justify her choices gives her work a mystique that contrasts with today’s fashion culture of branding and constant visibility.
She is one of the few designers who has continuously designed without compromise, and her philosophy has never wavered. She once told The New York Times, “The meaning is that there is no meaning.” This quote reflects her refusal to create within boundaries, whether cultural, aesthetic, or commercial.
In 2017, Kawakubo became the second living designer (after Yves Saint Laurent) to be honored with a solo exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute in New York. Titled “Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between,” the exhibition showcased the radical dualities in her work—absence/presence, fashion/anti-fashion, design/not design—and further cemented her status as one of fashion’s true visionaries.
Cultural Impact and Legacy
Comme des Garçons is more than a brand—it is a cultural movement. It has influenced not only fashion but also art, architecture, music, and design. The brand’s commitment to originality has inspired generations of designers, from Yohji Yamamoto and Martin Margiela to emerging labels like Craig Green and Rick Owens.
Its flagship stores, often designed by renowned architects, are as experimental as the clothing itself. The Dover Street Market concept stores in cities like London, Tokyo, and Los Angeles act as curated spaces where fashion, art, and culture collide. These stores house both Comme des Garçons collections and a rotating selection of other cutting-edge designers, giving a platform to new voices in the industry.
What makes Comme des Garçons especially significant is its refusal to cater to trends or chase popularity. Even in an industry increasingly shaped by social media and fast fashion, Kawakubo has never compromised her artistic vision. That integrity has built an intensely loyal global following and ensured the brand’s continued relevance.
Looking Ahead: The Future of Comme des Garçons
As fashion becomes more digital, inclusive, and sustainability-focused, Comme des Garçons continues to evolve. The brand explores 3D design technologies, upcycled materials, and new modes of presentation while still staying true to its essence.
Rei Kawakubo has also nurtured a new generation of talent through her company. Designers like Junya Watanabe and Kei Ninomiya (of Noir Kei Ninomiya) began their careers under her mentorship and have gone on to build their own highly regarded labels, continuing the Comme des Garçons legacy in new and exciting ways.
Conclusion
Comme des Garçons is not just a fashion label—it is a philosophy, a challenge, and a continuing conversation about what it means to create and to wear. Rei Kawakubo has shown that fashion doesn’t have to be beautiful, wearable, or understandable to be powerful. It can provoke, disrupt, and transform.
